The Culture of Tea

Each culture seems to have its shared substance that brings people together. In America, it might be beer or coffee. In Paraguay, terere. In Amsterdam, marijuana. In Senegal, that substance is ataaya, or tea. Ataaya is consumed any place that people gather, at all times of the day, and by everyone. If you'd like to try this at home (which I do recommend), follow these steps.

Tea paraphernalia

1. Gather your ingredients.
Small boutiques sell packs of tea and sugar, with just the right amount of sugar measured out for a session of tea. Every household is already equipped with the small tea pot, two shot-sized glasses, and a fourno with charcoal/wood to heat the tea. If you're really patron, you might also add mint, vanilla-flavored sugar, or mint candy.

2. Heat water with tea leaves.
The job of tea preparation in Senegal is unique in that it can fall to either men or women. Most other tasks are clearly defined along gender lines. Age, though, matters in that, if you are older, you generally don't make tea. You are served by younger folks. (Unless I'm the young one there. I do not make tea.)

3. As water boils, add sugar. And keep on adding.
Generally, three rounds of tea are served. Very rarely is it less (some complain that round 3 is just sugar water, an odd complaint considering how much sugar is consumed here). The first round is quite strong. Number two - my personal favorite - is a perfect balance of strong tea and sugary sweetness.

4. Make foam.
The tea is poured back and forth between the two glasses, creating foam. The foam effect not only ensures everything is mixed, it also cools down the tea.

5. Serve tea.
Having only two glasses in a family of 20 is not indicative of poverty, it is the norm. Having only two glasses is important - it establishes hierarchy. The first two people to be offered tea are the highest on the totem pole (generally, older men). When I first arrived, I was always offered tea first. Now I'm first after the men. I suppose I should take this as a compliment.

I've seen volunteers get frustrated when villagers claim not to have money for medicine when they're sick, though the tea supply is always stocked. But this is very telling. Medicine is expensive, tea is not. Sometimes it's necessary to walk long distances to the nearest dispensaire. Tea is sold on every corner. Medicine is a big purchase for one individual. Tea is a small purchase for the collective. It's been estimated that only about half of the Western medicines handed out actually work. Tea is 100% effective in uniting people, necessary if you have guests, and generally good for the soul.

So barrin kelu nin barrin musoolu (brothers and sisters), pull up a stool and I'll put the kettle on.